Chefchaouen

April-June and September-October offer the best balance. Temperatures of 20-25°C, ideal light for photography, often blue sky. Summer (July-August) is very busy and hot (30°C). Winter is cool (5-12°C at night) and it can rain: the medina then takes on a deserted feel that some appreciate, but prepare for slippery streets. Avoid Moroccan weekends and public holidays if you want to photograph without crowds.

One night is enough to see the essentials, two nights allow for a proper pause. Many visitors come on a day trip from Tangier, but it's a shame: the city reveals its full magic early in the morning (before 9am) and late afternoon when day tourists leave. Sleep on site at least one night to enjoy the golden evening light and the morning calm.

Outa el-Hammam square: heart of the medina, around the mosque and kasbah. Cafés under the trees, starting point for everything. Kasbah and ethnographic museum: 15th-century fortification. 60 dirhams entrance, view of the rooftops from the tower. Ras el-Maa: the waterfall and washhouse, 10 minutes walk from the medina. This is where women still wash their laundry, a place of local life. The Great Mosque: not visitable, but its octagonal minaret, unique in Morocco, can be seen from the square. Panoramic viewpoint: 30-45 minute climb to the Spanish mosque on the hill opposite. 360° view over the blue medina and mountains. Do at sunset.

Getting lost in the medina: the real experience. All the alleys are blue, but each corner has its personality. Prepare your camera at dawn: the light is exceptional between 7am and 9am. Hiking at Akchour: 30 km away, accessible by grand taxi. Two options: the waterfall (1h one way) or God's Bridge (2-3h round trip). Magnificent in April-May. Artisan shopping: Chefchaouen is known for its Berber weaving, wool blankets, leather sandals. Prices softer than in Marrakech. Sunset coffee: terraces on Outa el-Hammam or riad rooftops nearby.

Rif goat cheese: local specialty, very different from what's found elsewhere in Morocco. Enjoy with fresh bread and local olive oil. Bissara: typical northern fava bean soup, served at breakfast with a drizzle of olive oil and cumin. 5-10 dirhams at local spots. Berber tagine with mountain herbs: more rustic than Marrakech's. Andalusian pastries: heritage from the city's founders. Gazelle horns, chebakia, makroud.

Tangier Med - Chefchaouen: 120 km, about 2h15 via N16 then N2. No direct motorway, the road is winding from Tetouan onwards. By shared grand taxi from Tetouan: 30-40 dirhams, more economical but less comfortable. By CTM bus from Tangier city: 3h, about 50 dirhams, several departures per day. It's the most logical stop after disembarking at Tangier Med, especially if you then plan to head down to Fez (200 km further).

ATMs: 3-4 in the medina, functional but can break down. Plan cash. Footwear: the alleys are cobbled, sloping, sometimes slippery. Avoid heels and smooth soles. Photography: ask before photographing locals, especially women. Most refuse. For cats (many and photogenic), no problem. Hammam: Chefchaouen has two historic public hammams. 10-15 dirhams entrance, authentic atmosphere. Cannabis: the Rif region is known for its production. Politely refuse any street offer to buy, it's illegal and risky.