Fez

March-May and October-November are the best months. Temperatures of 18-25°C, soft light that brings out the ochre tones of the medina. Summer is dry and hot (35-38°C) but more bearable than Marrakech thanks to altitude. Winter is cold and damp (5-10°C at night), avoid if possible: the dark narrow alleys of the medina are unpleasant in the rain.

Two nights minimum. The medina is too dense and labyrinthine to skim in a day. With two full nights you have time to visit the madrasas, tanneries, university, without rushing. Three nights are ideal if you also want to visit Meknes and Volubilis (60 km away, day trip). Avoid the classic mistake of planning a single night: you will leave frustrated.

Chouara tanneries: the most famous in Morocco. View from the terraces of the leather merchants surrounding them (visit costs a purchase or 20-50 dirham tip). The smell is strong: you're given a sprig of mint to breathe. Bou Inania madrasa: 20 dirhams, 14th-century Quranic school, zellige and carved wood of rare finesse. El-Attarine madrasa: smaller but equally spectacular. Al Quaraouiyine university: not visitable for non-Muslims, but its apple-green door is worth the detour. Coppersmiths' souk (Seffarine square): coppersmiths at work, unique soundscape. Borj Nord: fort on the hill, panoramic view over the medina. Do by taxi at sunset.

Guided tour of the medina: in Fez more than anywhere else, a local guide is worth it. 9,000 alleys, losing 2-3 hours going in circles is guaranteed without one. Count 200-400 dirhams for a half day with an official guide (badge required). Pottery workshop: Fez is the capital of Moroccan ceramics. Visit the Aïn Nokbi workshops in the southeast, zellige and wheel demonstration. Cooking class: typical Fez dishes like pigeon pastilla and harira fassi. Authentic hammam: Fez has several preserved historic hammams, including Ain Azliten and Sidi Azouz.

Pastilla: brick pastry stuffed with pigeon or chicken, almonds, cinnamon and icing sugar. Sweet-savory dish typical of Fez. Harira fassi: spicier local version of the national soup. Mechoui: slow-cooked lamb, sold by weight in the medina. Gazelle horns (kaab ghazal): almond paste-filled pastries, fassi specialty. Khlea: cured and confit meat typical of Fez, to try in a tagine. Avoid unpasteurized juices on the street, Fez tap water is harder than elsewhere.

Tangier Med - Fez: 330 km, about 3h30 by car via the A1 motorway (tolls: 150 dirhams). By train from Tangier city: ONCF direct, 2h40, 175 dirhams in 2nd class (the Al Boraq TGV from Tangier is faster but doesn't go directly to Fez). By CTM bus: 5h, 100 dirhams. For those descending from the north with a Chefchaouen stop, count 200 km Chefchaouen-Fez, scenic 4-hour road. It's the pivotal stop between northern and southern Morocco.

Finding your way: impossible without a guide or GPS. Download Maps.me offline before arriving. Fake guides: very insistent at the medina entrance (Bab Boujloud). Refuse firmly. Mules: yes, you will encounter loaded mules in the alleys: it's the only possible transport. Give way. Dress code: Fez is more traditional than Marrakech. Cover shoulders and knees, especially near mosques and madrasas. Tannery smell: if you are very sensitive, know that it permeates the whole district. Shopping: Fez is the best city for coppersmithing, blue ceramics (zellige) and leather. Less aggressive haggling than Marrakech, but it exists.