Essaouira

April to October. The climate is cooler than inland: 20-25°C in summer, 16-22°C in spring and autumn. Winter is mild (15-18°C) but windy. Wind is constant: 20 km/h annual average, up to 40 km/h in June-August. Kitesurfers love it but it can disturb beach time. The Gnaoua festival (world music) in June attracts 500,000 people: book well in advance. Avoid sea swimming in peak season: cold (17-19°C even in summer).

One night is enough for the medina and port. Two nights if you also want to enjoy the beach, wind or water activities. Three nights for a real relaxation break after Marrakech. The town is walkable in 30 minutes, everything is concentrated within and around the ramparts. Also possible as a day trip from Marrakech (3h drive each way), but it's a shame: evening light and morning calm are the best moments.

Skala du Port: fortified bastion with Portuguese bronze cannons. 60 dirhams. This is where Orson Welles shot scenes from Othello (1952). View of the port and Mogador island. Fishing port: typical blue boats, fish auction in late morning. Authentic local spectacle. Medina: pedestrian zone within the walls, more open than those of Fez or Marrakech thanks to the grid layout. Moulay Hassan square: main square, cafés, terrace, meeting point. Beach: 3 km long. Calm on the city side, sports (kite/surf) further south. Mogador island: bird sanctuary (Eleonora's falcons). Restricted visit, prior authorization required. Visible from the coast.

Surf or kite lessons: many schools. Surf: 250 dirhams the 1h30 lesson. Kite: 600-800 dirhams the lesson. The best spot for beginners is Sidi Kaouki, 25 km south. Boat trip: fishing outing or dolphin watching. 200-400 dirhams for 2h. Argan oil workshop: the Essaouira region is the historical production area. Visits to cooperatives run by Berber women. Free, purchase at cooperative price. Improvised Gnawa concert: musicians in the street or in certain cafés. Spa and hammam: Essaouira is famous for its spas. Hammam Mounia, Hammam Lalla Mira.

Fresh fish: grilled sardines at the port for 30-50 dirhams. Choose your fish from the stall, they grill it in front of you. Fish tagine: local version, often with grouper, lemon, coriander and olives. Shrimp and squid: inexpensive, freshly caught. Shellfish: clams, mussels, sea urchins in season. Seafood pastilla: original version of pastilla, rarer. Culinary argan oil: different from the cosmetic version, more toasted. To enjoy with bread and amlou (almond paste with honey and argan). Local wine Val d'Argan: the region produces wine, taste at the estate 20 km away.

Essaouira is never a direct stop from Tangier Med. Logical itinerary: Tangier Med → Casablanca (350 km, 4h) → Marrakech (240 km, 3h) → Essaouira (180 km, 3h). It's the last stop before going back up or before Marrakech airport. Total Tangier Med - Essaouira distance: 770 km. No direct motorway, national road via Marrakech. Also possible as a day trip from Marrakech: departure 7am, return 7pm. By public transport: CTM bus Marrakech-Essaouira, 3h, 80 dirhams, several departures per day. No train station in Essaouira (the closest is Marrakech).

Constant wind: bring a windbreaker even in summer. The breeze rarely dies down before 6pm. Prefer sheltered terraces for lunches. Sand in eyes: on the beach, especially in the afternoon. Sunglasses recommended. Storks: numerous on the ramparts. Don't approach, they can attack during nesting season. Cats: Essaouira is known for its cats, everywhere in the medina. Hygiene: don't touch, they may carry fleas. Local hammams: 10-15 dirhams shared with locals. Much more authentic than tourist spas. Shopping: thuya wood crafts (local wood), silver jewelry, Gnawa music instruments. More stable prices than Marrakech, less haggling.