Tangier

April to October. Tangier has a Mediterranean climate: mild summers (24-28°C) thanks to the strait breeze, unlike the rest of Morocco. May-June and September are perfect for the beach (water at 19-21°C). Winter is mild but windy and rainy, Atlantic humidity is noticeable. Avoid January-February: frequent rain, fog over the strait that can disrupt ferries.

One night is enough if Tangier is just a stopover between the ferry and your next destination. Two nights allow you to visit the medina, Cap Spartel and the Caves of Hercules without rushing. Three nights if you also want to do the coast to Asilah (40 km south, pretty little art town) or a detour to Tetouan. Most travelers on a Morocco circuit pass through Tangier at the start or end of their trip.

Medina and Kasbah: smaller and quieter than those of Fez or Marrakech. The kasbah, on high ground, offers a view of the port and strait. You can see Spain on clear days. Caves of Hercules: 14 km to the west, in the cliff. The opening to the sea has the shape of the African continent inverted. 60 dirhams entrance. Cap Spartel: northwestern tip of the African continent, where Mediterranean and Atlantic meet. Lighthouse from 1864, free access. April 9 Square (Grand Socco): gateway to the medina, flower market, local atmosphere. Café Hafa: terraced terrace over the sea, open since 1921, formerly frequented by the Rolling Stones and Bowles. Kasbah museum: 20 dirhams, in the former sultan's palace.

Corniche walk: 7 km of seafront, renovated in 2010. View of the port, ferries constantly arriving from and leaving for Spain. Beaches: municipal beach (center, lively) or wild beaches towards Cap Spartel (Achakar, Sidi Kacem). Beware of currents on the Atlantic coast. Day trip to Asilah: 40 km south, small white medina painted with murals every summer. Day return. Shopping: fewer souks than in Fez, but a good address for leather and spices. Casa Barata market for antiques. Nightlife: Tangier has a reputation for being the most liberal city in Morocco. Café-concerts in the new town district.

Grilled fish: Tangier is a fishing town. Sardines, sea bream, grouper. Restaurants at the port or central market. Fish tagine: coastal variant, sometimes with olives or preserved lemon. Fried squid: very popular, to eat by the sea. Seafood pastilla: local version of pastilla, rarer. Moorish coffee with condensed milk: Tangier tradition, to sip on a terrace facing the strait. Portuguese pastries: legacy from the era when Tangier was Portuguese (1471-1661). A few bakeries have kept the tradition.

Tangier Med - Tangier city: 40 km, 30 minutes by motorway. If you arrive by ferry at Tangier Med, count on a taxi (250-300 dirhams) or TIRM shuttle (15 dirhams). For the city center, get off at the bus station or Tangier-Ville train station. For travelers coming from Spain, it's almost always via Tangier Med (Tarifa-Tangier Ville is still possible but with fewer frequencies). Important: do not confuse Tangier Med (freight port and cargo ferries) with Tangier City (historic passenger port, more central).

On disembarking the ferry: at Tangier Med, keep your boarding badge and pass the checks calmly. Count 30-45 minutes in total. Fake guides at the port: many, more insistent than elsewhere. Fixed taxi fares displayed (check before getting in). Petit taxis: blue colored in Tangier, max 3 people, meter required in the city. Grand taxis: beige colored, for long distances or shared. Money: change little at Tangier Med (worse rates), ATMs throughout the city. Language: Spanish spoken by many in Tangier, French too. Safety: Tangier is generally safe, vigilance at night around the port and medina.